Share your July Photos (2024)
Quote from Cory Maben on July 19, 2024, 9:28 pmI just got back 5 rolls of film. One of which was expired slide film and the images were so faint that it was effectively blank. Any tips on how to use expired film?
This roll is some Harmon Phoenix 200, I have quite a few I liked so be sure to check out my Flickr for more. Overall I am feeling very mixed about the stock. It takes a lot of work to make the scans color come out even kinda close. I feel like it is heavily red, maybe it's just the particular interaction between the AWB of my camera and this film, but it was a pain. However, when I feel like the images worked I absolutely loved them.
On a side note. I discovered that the K-1 has a color profile specifically for color negative film and at least using the live view and trying different color profiles it seemed to be more accurate, but I don't know, maybe that was the reason the color was such a pain this time around. I'll try it again with another roll and report back. Anyway, here are a few of my favorites:
MFP_0414 by Cory Maben, on Flickr
MFP_0383 by Cory Maben, on Flickr
MFP_0395 by Cory Maben, on Flickr
MFP_0399 by Cory Maben, on Flickr
MFP_0405-1 by Cory Maben, on Flickr
They look great. very retro. I just bought a roll of Ilford XP-2. have no idea what I will shoot with it.
Quote from Luke Green on July 15, 2024, 3:04 pmHere's a few of mine - just got back from a trip to Yellowstone NP! All taken with the OM-System OM1 and either the 12-40 or the 100-400
Lone tree in the Tetons by Luke Green, on Flickr
Bison family by Luke Green, on Flickr
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone by Luke Green, on Flickr
My last trip out west was really smokey from wildfires . Driving west pretty much all the way thru Nebraska, Colorado and into Utah. same thing?
Quote from KankRat on July 20, 2024, 2:21 pmQuote from Cory Maben on July 19, 2024, 9:28 pmI just got back 5 rolls of film. One of which was expired slide film and the images were so faint that it was effectively blank. Any tips on how to use expired film?
This roll is some Harmon Phoenix 200, I have quite a few I liked so be sure to check out my Flickr for more. Overall I am feeling very mixed about the stock. It takes a lot of work to make the scans color come out even kinda close. I feel like it is heavily red, maybe it's just the particular interaction between the AWB of my camera and this film, but it was a pain. However, when I feel like the images worked I absolutely loved them.
On a side note. I discovered that the K-1 has a color profile specifically for color negative film and at least using the live view and trying different color profiles it seemed to be more accurate, but I don't know, maybe that was the reason the color was such a pain this time around. I'll try it again with another roll and report back. Anyway, here are a few of my favorites:
They look great. very retro. I just bought a roll of Ilford XP-2. have no idea what I will shoot with it.
Thanks! Yeah I agree, they have that retro look to them the color noise I think does that. I'm probably going to order some more here soon. I didn't know you shot film, I look forward to seeing what you get with it!
It's been a few months since I've shared some photos. Flickr mobile app for Android hasn't been the same since the last few updates, same with LR. Finally getting to sharing my back log. My uploads were constantly getting timed out, which is beyond frustrating.
I traveled to Maine in May, for my Girlfriends Birthday. We visited Portland and Bar Harbor/Acadia National Park. I took a lot of the Nikon Coolpix A and Olympus EM-1 Mk I w/the orginal 4/3rds adapted 14-54 F2.8 Mk II and 50-200 F2.8
Portland Head Light by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Model Ship by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Hawkeye Instamatic by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Northeast Harbor, Mt. Desert Island by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Streets of Portland ME by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Fort Gorges by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Wendameen Schooner by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Nubble Lighthouse by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Boothbay Houses by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Bday Girl! by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Lobstering! by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Ram Island Light by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Portland Head by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Monarch by Mark Kasick, on Flickr
A monarch on milkweed in my backyard. Some good reading here:
Doug Tallamy - Homegrown National Park
I'm tied to the desk right now with no end in sight, so very envious of you all going out and taking cool pictures!
Quote from Cory Maben on July 19, 2024, 9:28 pmI just got back 5 rolls of film. One of which was expired slide film and the images were so faint that it was effectively blank. Any tips on how to use expired film?
[...]
With long expired negative films I just give them more light and hope for the best. I had a 17m bulk roll of HP4 HP5 (w/o plus prob. 1970s) from my grandfather, with that I did some exposure testing first, to see if its even usable.
Peter Elgar on Youtube has a video called "FP3 challenge" or similar ... on how to test in old expired film properly. This method might be adaptable for slide film, too. (Maybe start with a slight underexposure at box speed and work your way up in half stops...). Generally slide film doesn't like overexposure (just like digital ...but without the shadow recovery that digital offers). So the general 1 Stop per 10 years rule doesn't work well with it.
With my expired (fridge stored) slide film (Sensia 100) i was lucky till now shooting at box speed. Only my last roll of Sensia 400 (shot in 2019) had become somewhat grainy and colors weren't as nice as they used to be. No problem for scanning but not the best for projecting.
Quote from Christian K. on July 22, 2024, 7:29 pmQuote from Cory Maben on July 19, 2024, 9:28 pmI just got back 5 rolls of film. One of which was expired slide film and the images were so faint that it was effectively blank. Any tips on how to use expired film?
[...]
With long expired negative films I just give them more light and hope for the best. I had a 17m bulk roll of HP4 from my grandfather, with that I did some exposure testing first, to see if its even usable.
Peter Elgar on Youtube has a video called "FP3 challenge" or similar ... on how to test in old expired film properly. This method might be adaptable for slide film, too. (Maybe start with a slight underexposure at box speed and work your way up in half stops...). Generally slide film doesn't like overexposure (just like digital ...but without the shadow recovery that digital offers). So the general 1 Stop per 10 years rule doesn't work well with it.
With my expired (fridge stored) slide film (Sensia 100) i was lucky till now shooting at box speed. Only my last roll of Sensia 400 (shot in 2019) had become somewhat grainy and colors weren't as nice as they used to be. No problem for scanning but not the best for projecting.
Well I know know that exposure at box speed isn't working. So I guess the next roll I'll shoot at +1 and see how that happens. I have a ton of the stuff, I bought a bulk lot of Ektachrome off ebay because I wanted that 60s slide film vibe, but as a result, I have no idea of the storage conditions. So I guess I'll play around with it. Thanks!
In general is it better for me to set the exposure comp to +1 or is it better to set the ISO to half it's rated value (ISO 50 in this case), does it matter? Then importantly when I go to have it developed to I need to tell them to push it or do I develop it like normal?
Hi,
I never shot slide film that old, but you got me thinking why your film would come out blank. I would imagine that the numbers on the border are blank too?
Excursion:
When slide film is developed you have 2 development steps. 1st step with a high contrast BW-developer results in a bw-negative image. Next step is to dissolve that silver image. No image at that point. (Where the negative was black, there would no light sensitive material left and on the light parts of the negative there would still be plenty of sensitive silver). Then the remaining undeveloped light sensitive silver gets exposed (usually chemically, but could be done with actual light). Now the color development is done resulting in the positive color image and simultaneously a positive BW image. Last step is to dissolve the BW image and fix it leaving only the final positive color image on the film.
My theory:
That HP5 I mentioned (as well as the FP3 in the suggested video) were heavily fogged. It would look all black, when lying on a white paper. It needed about 4 Stops (16 times !) more light for Darkroom-printing/ DSLR-scanning. I assume that ektachrome is heavily fogged too. (The fog is developed silver even in the unexposed areas...well unexposed by light..heat or (background) radiation did expose those areas ). The result would be that after the first bleach-step, there won't be any / much light sensitive material left for the positive development because the fog used it all up..so blank film.
If my theory is correct, you won't get any image in E6 at any exposure. Your only chance would be to cross-process in C41 or even Black and White. Results will not be what you bought the film for, might still be worthwhile or might be terrible. Shoot a test roll with controlled lighting and get it processed in C41, then go from there.
In general is it better for me to set the exposure comp to +1 or is it better to set the ISO to half it's rated value (ISO 50 in this case), does it matter?
For the film it's the same, I set it on the ISO, because then I don't accidently switch back to "normal" and still have the exposure comp available.
Then importantly when I go to have it developed to I need to tell them to push it or do I develop it like normal?
Develop normal. (Expired film lost sensitivity over time, so may actually be ISO 50 when the box says 200. "Overexposing" it +2 with regards to box speed would then actually be the proper normal exposure. The series of Testexposures I suggested is to find out what the actual ISO is...works with fresh film to, as manufacturers have sometimes been known to overstate the ISO...)
PUSH is a longer development time to compensate for UNDER exposure (e.g. shooting 400 speed film as if it were 800). Gives higher contrast and looses shadow detail.
PULL is to develop shorter to compensate for OVER exposure. Gives flatter contrast.
Good luck!
Here's some Olympus Pen D2 Half frame shots! I pushed Kentmere Pan 100 to 800, developed in Ilford Ilfosol 3 1+9 solution for 24 min. With the release of the Pentax 17, I wanted to see how much I still like half frame. I got my Pen D2 in 2021, and haven't shot a roll since then. The detail rendered out of such a small negative is impressive to me. I'll probably grab a Pentax 17 eventually. The D2 design is scale focus and has a max shutter speed of 1/500 and a Zuiko 32mm F1.9 lens, which for the 70s is pretty innovative at the time.
For me, now that I've gotten into film development, I'm less concerned about getting the sharpest or highest IQ shots. It's more fun to experiment at this point, since it's made shooting film significantly cheaper. Especially B&W, Kentmere Pan is very low contrast and has less silver than the typical Harman owned Ilford counterpart. You can really push it, to gain back that contrast and get some very pleasant film grain. I regularly push 400 to 1600 or 3200, eventually I'd like to go to 6400 or 12800 and stand develop. I think the argument that half frame is too low res, doesn't always hold it's own weight. Some of the images out of the Pentax 17 are super sharp.
Tractor by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Como Sunken Garden by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Como Sunken Garden 2 by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Farming Diptych by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Air Plants by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Kentmere Pan 100 Pushed 800 by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Como Lilly Pool by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
Fern Room by Bruce Foster, on Flickr
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